Sunday, 11 September 2016

Purple flares and grid pattern on xtrans: Why its there and how to remove it

There have been a few discussions and posts over the years about a phonomenon on some digital cameras where a grid pattern is appearent in purple flares when pixel peeping. Here is a discussion on the topic from a few years back, that time about a Sony camera.
Now it has become appearant that the effect can occure in xtrans sensors as well. A few months ago Mathieu att Mirrorlessons wrote an article on it. I first read about it on a discussion a few days ago and have been doing some digging since, here is what i know and what have been able to find out the last couple of days.


Purple flare effect in general

Purple flare origins when there are strong light sources in line of sight of the front lens. The source can be, but doesnt have to be, in the frame to cause a flare. If its outside the frame, a well made shade usually helps on a prime. On a zoom lens the shade has to be made to protect only the widest end and if one zooms in, a light source outside the frame can still be in line of sight from the front lens. Filters and dirty front lenses will usually increase the effect.

Flares can usually be avoided, but sometimes they look really good and thats when the real problem occure. If you want it there it has to be well rendered in your photo.

Film vs digital

On film this is usually not a problem unless you scan the negative. If one makes an RA4 copy, a well placed purple flare looks awesome. On a digital camera or a scanned image, things get more complicated. Purple flares over highlights usually work ok, but on shadows, and gray to black highlights in particular, they often become problem. On every camera i have been using (doesnt include sigmas) and every scanner i have used (which are a lot) what always happen is that the post processing latitude turns to almost zero if such a flare is present. Any pushing, pulling, sharpening or even white balance shift will make it look horribly ugly if you dont treat it carefully. Further more, if shot with a digital camera, usually the tolerance for cropping decreases a lot too. To much cropping and one of several kinds of artifacts are bound to appear. It can, for example, be clotting, loss of contrast or that part of the image just gets a different look. On xtrans files is it the grid pattern.

Why?

Mixing bright colour with dark gray is obviously not easy. Try to imagine it yourself. However, when its done right it can look very pleasant. I like to do in postprocessing my darkroom prints. On most papers it doesnt work at all. When it works, its because the papers have a structure like tiny hills and valleys. The black silver then only forms its shade of gray of the photo on the mountain tops in the highlights. Then i can rub colour down in the valleys without desturbing how much silver that should be visible. Even with such a paper it only works in the highlight areas of the photo, in shadow areas the silver reaches down in the shadows and there can be no mix. Digital images face very much the same kind of problems, a single pixel cant be both bright purple and dark grey at the same time. To create something that looks like that, some pixels have to have one property and others the other one. With some clever maths and enough pixels, this is fixable if you start with a picture that have all the colour information for every pixel. But ouch, a digital sensor doesn't have that. Every pixel only have one colour, and its green in 50% of the time on a bayer sensor and even more on an xtrans one. To a green pixel, purple looks almost black. So the amount of pixels the clever maths have to work with is seriously reduced in a purple flare.

The grid pattern

Why does xtrans form a grid pattern? To answer that we have to take a look at the xtrans pattern, so here it is.


As you can see, every fifth green pixel have a different coloured pixel on its side and a green one at its corners. However, four out of five green pixels only have differently coloured pixels at two of the sides. Demosaicing is complecated stuff and ill give you a very very simplyfied version on how it works from one of the green pixels perspective when being faced with purple light.

First it looks to its own information and sees black. Then it asks its longside neighbours. Half of them say black, one says slightly red, and one slightly blue. Including itself, a 3 to 2 majority vote black. Then it asks its corner neighbours and gets the same answer, 3 to 2 for black. The 5th green pixel gets another ansew from its longside neighbours, 4 to 1 majority says its not black which changes its mind.


Now lets look closely at an affected picture converted with lightroom and compare to the xtrans pattern. 

The result is the complete opposite of the prediction, but the pattern remains as the algorithm seems to overcompensate when there is not enough data. I have now looked at the output from several different raw converters including the in-camera one. Every single one creates this reverse pattern in the purple flares. Clearly some tweaking of the demosaicing algorithm in affected areas would be in order. It would still need the mix of brighter and darker pixels to keep the luster, but they have to be scrambled somehow.

Is this a problem worth bothering about?

Yes and no. It only shows this clear when pixel peeping and the kind of screen you use also affects how visible it is. However, when trying to post process a photo with a purple flare by any means to achive sharpening, cropping, clarity, opening up the shadows or changing the contrast, it is always the flare areas that sets the limit of how much one can do. If i was at charge at Fuji, i would dedicate some resources to investigate it and if i was in charge at Silkapix id definetly see it as a chance to show the world i was still ahead of Adobe.

Does it affect my pictures as a photographer? Almost never, and when it does, i know how to fix it in post for almost every case.

The post production solution

Lets start with a picture. This is from the x-pro2 with a 10-24 with a street lamp slightly in front of me, shining down on the camera from above . It wasnt in the frame, but the shade didnt cover my lens enough to keep the light from reaching my front lens. 

Here is a 1:1 crop, it dosnt look pretty at all:
(it uses the adobe standard profile with no modifications but slight clarity and slight dehaze to exagurate the effect)



From lightroom i then right click on the image and chose "Open as smart object in Photoshop". In fotoshop i select the whole image and apply box blur with the minimum strenght of 1, (I use gaussian blur 2 if the pattern appears as diagonal rather than horisontal/vertical). I then close photoshop and click save.

Here is the result that then automatically opens up i Photoshop as a PSD file next to the RAF:
The grid is gone and the loss of detail is much like using a sensor with aa-filter.

Here you can download the before and after pictures side by side. It is a crop at approximatly 1/4 of an xtrans III file.

Happy shooting with purple flares again!

P.S.
In Mathieus article there are pictures with a diagonal pattern as well. I have not been able to recreate that pattern. Could someone, please, mail me (roos@swedish.photography) a RAF of such a photo so that i can investigate it further?

Tuesday, 30 August 2016

More facts about film sizes

You should know that in photography, 6x6 doesnt equal 6x6cm image area, neither is 645 the same as 6x4,5cm nor is 4x5" 4x5", it would just have been too easy. Except for 135 film (small frame) the sizes include the borders of the roll film, making a 6x6 lens have to produce a circle of good quality that can fit a square of around 55x55mm. It varies a lot though. For example, im pretty sure my 6x6 P6 produces a smaller picture area than my 645 fujis do and my 6x12 produces only around 10cm wide a picture.
For large format it gets even more complicated. First we have to take into account that the nominal sizes are those of the film holders rather than the film itself. The film sheet has to be i bit smaller to fit the holder. By chance, this makes the slightly larger 13x18cm format have exactly 5" wide sheets, while film called 5x7" is slightly narrower than 5". In addition to this, there are the borders. For 4x5" format in total that means the image area is about 95x120mm which is between 0.5 to 1 cm smaller in each direction than the name suggests.

Does this affect digital as well? In a way, it does. Making a 60x45mm or a 60x60mm mf back wouldnt make anyone happy except the lens manufacturers. A lot of lenses for regular 6x6 or 645 systems would be quite useless with such a back since the corner would lose light, image qualitey or both. However, on digital backs and cameras, if you look carefully you will find the actual size mentioned. Just remember that while 44x33 is a 645 crop, around 55x55 is a perfectly sized 6x6 sensor.
On top of that, there are so many misconceptions on how film/sensor size affects the photos floating around the internet. I tried to straighten them out during a rainy day this winter.
I should try to make a shorter and better version of this, i know. But it at least tells how it sorts the myths out from the facts if you can get yourself through it.

Thats all for today, or tonights darkroom class will be a teacher short.

Entry level mirrorless medium format camera

Early summer, i put down my mirrorless medium format wishlist. Reading about the rumoured lenses on fujirumors made me realize a MMF done right could have so much potential. Here is how Fujifilm could make an affordable entry level that would still be attractive in low end medium format price ranges. (Edited the text after fixing some seriously flawed arithmetics)


The only certain known about the hopefully upcoming fuji MMF is the sensor. It will be the Sony 44x33 or not at all in the close future, whether modified to xtrans or not. This gives us a 4x3 aspect ratio which is quite close to optimal for fitting a lot of sensor area in an image circle so the lenses will not have to be too big. Its also gives the images the same proportions as the classic 6x45 film format, making it very suitable for waist level shooting.


Even an entry level MMF camera wouldn't come cheap so it would have to come with something very appealing, much like the x100 attracted a lot of attention and buyers without being the best performer at its going price. It would also have to strip away a lot of the extra stuff we would expect from an expensive Fujifilm camera.

One obvious thing we can expect to lose on an entry level camera is both the EVF and optical viewfinders. Other things that may have to go are big buffers, extra jacks for headphones and mics, dual sd-slots, weather sealing and so on. So would anyone buy a £2000-3000 x-m1 with those things missing?

I wouldn’t and i guess you wouldn't either. But what if i offered you this, but with the sony 44x33 instead of 127 (40x40mm) film?

A rather small (and thus cheap) screen as a wlf with a foldable cover and there you are, a small and retro MMF camera in TLR style but with only one lens, interchangeable or not. Maybe the screen could even flip back so that we can use it like a regular non-evf mirrorless camera when we want to look stupid instead of super trendy.

Friday, 19 August 2016

The X-T2 - the end of an era

Until now, the x series has been all about photography. We have all felt it, the cameras walk, talk and look like cameras. The knobs are in the right places, the needs of photographers have been dictating the firmware updates and development of new models.

With x-t2, the heat produced by 4k dictates the internal airflow design of the camera, some of the precious firmware development resources will be put on video features and bug fixes, not to mention the extra buffer memory that could have been there if all those video modes were not there. If it sells well among videographers, designers of future models will consult both photographers and video shooters regarding ergonomics, button layout and lens needs.

Ofcourse more sales at least in theory will come with more resources to r&d which hopefully can negate some of the drawbacks. But there is no question about it, from time to time there will be choices between what is best for photographers and what is best for videographers and from now on fuji will have to consider both groups. Thats why video cameras and camcorders dont look like still cameras and why spoons dont look like forks.




Let's hope we don't end up with a spork like those sonys and panasonics out there!

Tuesday, 21 June 2016

The MMF (mirrorless medium format) wishlist

Tomorrow, Hasselblad will announce their MMF. It's going to be fancy and expensive for sure and hopefully good and even groundbreaking. Given the history of cooperation between HB and Fujifilm with the H series, xpan and Fuji manufacturing HB lenses, there is a good chance Fuji is involved somehow. But let's leave exactly how and how much to when we know more and dream away a bit of what a Fujifilm MMF could offer!

Here is my wishlist in short (details follows):
  1. 33x44
  2. Price
  3. X system look, feel and handling
  4. EVF
  5. Small size and low weight
  6. Good lenses
  7. DR and low light performance
  8. Protect the sensor
  9. Filming

33x44

There is only one sensor that makes sense for a Fuji MMF today. The sony 50Mp, roughly twice the size of a regular small frame (FF DSLR) picture frame. Anything larger would be too expensive and make the camera bigger. It's uses more or less the same tech as the x-trans II sensor, only it's about four times bigger. I will simply not wish for anything better, because i wouldn't want to pay the price for it. If Sony has improved it by making a second generation that gives the same or better performance at a lower price, i am all for it, of course.

Price

It has to be lower than the Hasselblad MMF, but it will most certainly be more expensive than a A7R2. Lets wish for closer to the Sony than the HB.

Look, feel and handling

Fuji has done very well with the x system in this regard. Lets hope they don't spend any money on doing it in a new way. An x-pro2 like body back and top with a better iso-dial would do great. They may go for x-t2 like, but losing the street and action photography advantage of seeing things moving into the frame that you get with the HVF would really be a petty on a small MMF.


The front will have to be different with bigger mount and i hope they will add a bigger grip to cope with more of the weight in the front.


They may even start with a fixed lens version or a step zoom like their 645z and go for interchangeable mount later. I think we will get a hint about that with the HB release tomorrow.


Bringing in the film simulations are crucial, lots of photographers are so happy with the jpegs that they only use the raws in special cases and Fuji will need them to tag along to MMF to get the volume up.

EVF

They could make an optical viewfinder only camera like the ga645 ones, but i really hope we will have a hybrid viewfinder. It has to be competitive, but not market leading in size and refresh rate.

Small size and low weight

This is arguably the very key to the product, thus i will elaborate quite a bit more on this subject.


How small can a MF be?
Well, have a look at the Voigtländer Bessa RF. It fits in a large pocket and it has 6x9cm picture frame.


That's about four times larger than 33x44!!!
How can that be?


Well, it's all about extendable flange. If you put a lens (or even a very small hole) 65mm away from the film or sensor, it will have the focal length of 65mm, hence the name. The amount of glass you need is minimal and you focus closer than infinity by moving the lens further away. However, if one want to keep the same flange and use a longer lens, you either need more and heavier glass or you have to put a longer barrel on the lens between the camera mount and the lens package. Let’s compare a regular 85mm DSLR lens with a 210mm large format lens (about the same angle of view on 4x5” as the 85 on the 24x36mm). The large format lens is very small and covers an image circle that is several magnitudes bigger than the DSLR lens. The drawback is that it has to be placed 8-9” away from the film.

When you make a fixed flange camera, like a DSLR or Fuji X or the Sony A7 you can make use of this when making a lens that has the same focal length of the flange of the camera. Just like Sony did with the 20/2.8 that more or less gave it it’s reputation of being a small and lightweight system. The price with such a short flange is that there has to be a tube on every lens making longer lenses big and bulky. If you, once again like Sony, add IBIS to the equation, making the sensors effectively bigger by moving it around, your long tube problem piles up on a wide problem and lens size goes from small to big to huge.

So how to solve it? Fuji already did on the ga645 cameras. On them a retractable tube can be telescoped into the camera when not in use. Bellows works just as well and are cheaper but comes with durability issues.

On the Fujifilm MMF i wish for a retractable tube with a lens mount in the front. This would provide all the following.


  • Small and light lenses regardless of focal length. Fast lenses will ofcourse be bigger than slow, but that's just as it is.
  • Design choices on auto focus. The lenses can have internal motors for fast focusing or money and weight can be saved by using the slow but accurate focusing method of moving the tube.
  • The camera would be very flat with the tube retracted.
  • Almost any lens that covers 33x44 could be mounted and used with slow but accurate AF.


In the end i wish for the camera plus a few lenses to fit in the same bag that holds an Canikon DSLR or a Sony A7 with equivalent lenses. If the camera with a small lens could fit in one of the large pockets of my jacket i would pay $500 more.

Good lenses

Fuji knows how to make good small frame lenses, good medium format lenses and good large format lenses. If they make the effort, they will make good 33x44 lenses. I just wish they will focus on that rather than dirt cheap or lots of lens options early on. If they build the camera smart, there will be enough options by adapting lenses while they expand the system slowly.

DR and low light performance

We know what we get with this Sony sensor, it performs well and Fuji will tweak it a little further. Two stops better than aps-c is the mark to reach for, but 1.5 is good enough.

Protect the sensor

Please Fuji! There should be a shutter-like thingy that covers the sensor when the lens release button is pressed and opens when next lens clicks into place. Why don’t we have this already?

Filming

Any minute on spending R&D time and resources on filming features are wasted on me. But if it pays itself by reaching a larger audience i'm all for as long as they don’t dedicate any buttons or knobs for filming and that fiming settings don’t get in the way of finding useful menu entries and alike.





Wednesday, 2 March 2016

Pure speculations: The G4433 - the digital exchangable lens folder

Do you remember this?





That is the GS645, Fuji's pocketable 6x4.5cm rangefinder from the mid 80s. Folding rangefinders are usually single lens cameras. The lenses are usually neither tele nor wide angle designs, but sits at the same distance from the film as their focal length. That way the lenses can be kept very small even if they are of the best possible quality, much like large format lenses. Up until now, digital folders and interchangeable folders have been scarce. It is very hard to create a rangefinder system that is reliable with different lenses. Every lens needs its own cam and they also need different infinity stops.

However, now we have EVF and phase detection pixels on digital sensors. We neither need a proper rangefinder nor a big mirror flapping around to focus. The implications are very interesting. One now could build a folder with swappable lenses or even with an extending telescopic tube like on pocket cameras or the ga645 cameras, only with a mount at the end where one could attach very light and small lenses. And we still could focus them just as well as with an x-t1 or x-e2.

The current rumours says Fujis next camera system will be a digital one with a large 50Mp sensor. That fits perfectly with the excellent dwarfed medium format sensor of the Pentax 645Z. (Dont worry, with its 44x33mm it's still almost twice the size of a full small frame sensor.  Put an xtrans filter on it and put it in a ga- or gs645 package and it will be an excellent sony a7 killer.

Ofcourse I could be totally wrong or the Fuji MF rumour could be nothing but a rumour, but a G4433 fits the specs well and it would be very very Fujiesque.

Resurrecting peel apart pack film

The facts

When polaroid went out of business, most of the options for peel apart pack film shooters was lost,. Among them the 665, the last pos+neg pack film. The only remaining producer was Fujifilm with colour and b&w positive only pack film. The emulsions were nothing but amazing with vivid colours and deep blacks in less than a minute of shooting.

Nevertheless, in the years since, sales were diverted to instax and one after another, they discontinued every emulsion and every size of pack film and as of this week, the production is stopped. Does this mean the era of peel apart pack film is over for ever?

Former approaches

When fp-3000b, the ultrafast b&w was discontinued the other year, approaches was made to buy the machinery to resume production. They were met with zero interest from Fuji. With all production ended they may not need their machines anymore and that may or may not change their minds. But we do not know whether they are useful at all without the Fuji emulsions. It could even be that they are broken and beyond affordable repair and that is why the production stopped.

Even if the machines work, Fujifilm may not want to sell them. Most of their photography business, instax in particular but digital as well and even some other branches like cosmetics rely heavily on Fujis know how in film production. Let's face it, there is no way they will ever let a third party know what their emulsions are made of and the same goes for coating if they have secrets to protect in that area as well. That is the core of their business.

What can be done

There is still a chance that some (or all) of the machinery could be sold without risking any trade secrets. Maybe they could be cleaned and modified to protect them. I do not know, but if someone want to give it a try, they have my support and that of many others. 

A word of advice though. Approach Fujifilm with both passion for the film and with great respect for both their right to protect their business and for their decision to discontinue peel apart pack film. They know they have ended an era and they did not do i lightly.